Beaches, great food, nature and culture – the perfect family holiday destination
Local Knowledge
Konstantinos Sarkas Time Out Cyprus
There are fireworks and parties in Nicosia and Limassol, on Eleftheria Square and Anexartisias Street respectively. Many venues have special events on December 31, but for a truly Greek-Cypriot experience try Rogmes in Limassol (+357 2534 1010) for its fantastic live Greek music. www.timeoutcyprus.com
Top Tables
Milijis
Milijis is a traditional Larnaca taverna serving classic Greek-Cypriot cuisine. The owners have been in the business since 1932 and are known for delectable dishes cooked in their wood-fire oven. A perfect introduction to the many joys of local food. 42 Pigiale Pasa Avenue, Larnaca, +357 24 655 867
Moti Mahal It’s not hard to find a decent fish restaurant or traditional taverna in Larnaca, but finding authentic Indian is next to impossible, which is why stylish Moti Mahal is justifiably popular.
If the traditional Indian dishes (and some creative variations) don’t appeal or if you’re not starving, opt for a platter of appetisers, or simply a drink on the sunny terrace. 52 Phinikoudes Promenade, Larnaca seafront, +357 70 004 484
Zanetto’s
Without a recommendation you’d walk right by this traditional eatery in Nicosia’s old town, and without a reservation you’d find yourself waiting for a while. While the ramshackle exterior and seemingly tiny interior are off-putting, once inside you’ll be pleased to see the crammed room opens onto large buzzy dining rooms, crammed with locals and friendly waiters delivering the tastiest mezedhes in Cyprus. 65 Trikoupi Street, Nicosia Old Town, +357 22 765 501
Suitcase Fillers
Cyprus Handicraft Centre
This handicrafts centre is the best place to buy traditional souvenirs. The quality of workmanship is superb; you’re assured it’s an original handmade item and not a cheap rip-off. Expect everything from exquisite Lefkara lace and embroidery, and traditional Lefkoniko woven textiles, to pottery, ceramics and carved wood. 25 Themidos Street, Limassol, +357 25 305 118
At Your Leisure
Pierides Foundation Museum This impressive display of archaeological finds, Byzantine treasures and traditional costumes, jewellery, crafts and weapons was once the private collection of the Pierides family, who started collecting these wonderful things to prevent them from being removed from the country. The museum is situated in their former Larnaca home, an elegant colonial-era building. 4 Zinonos Kitieos Street, Larnaca, +357 24 814 555
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Agia Napa Cultural Winter
A series of cultural events will take place at the Agia Napa Conference Hall. There will be traditional Cypriot music on 4 December, Christmas songs from the Cyprus Police Band on 18 December, a performance by dance troupe Rhythmos on 8 January and contemporary Greek songs on 22 January. www.agianapa.org.cy
Sunshine, culture and ancient history in Egypt’s Mediterranean pearl
Local Knowledge
Emad Defrawy General Manager, Hilton
People in Alexandria don’t celebrate New Year as much as they do in Cairo, but the cafés in the malls and the famous restaurants will be packed. Most years the Alexandria Opera House arranges a concert for New Year’s Eve. It’s always a wonderful start to the New Year. www.alexandriagreenplaza.hilton.com
Top Tables
Byblos
The super-luxurious Four Seasons Alexandria opened in the summer of 2007 and its flagship restaurant, Byblos, offers contemporary Lebanese-French cooking and a wonderful view of the Mediterranean. Expect the usual Four Seasons opulence combined with the finest ingredients. Remember to remove your sandals – the dress code is strictly smart. The Four Seasons Alexandria at San Stefano, +20 3 469 0141
Cap D’Or Cap D’Or is one of the few survivors of Alexandria’s Silver Age, when Egypt’s Mediterranean port was a thriving cosmopolitan centre of world trade and intrigue. Every inch of wall-space is covered with old photos, pictures and posters of places and products long since vanished. The serving counter is 100% zinc and the small seating area tightly packed. There’s an emphasis on simple mezze and local seafood – try the garlicky prawns in batter. 4 Adib St, +20 3 483 5177
At Your Leisure
Bibliotecha Alexandrina
The Bibliotecha is a must-see. Though less than a decade old, this spectacular building has done more to put Alexandria back on the map than any other initiative. The giant, discus-like structure, tilted and partly below street level, stands magnificently down the great sweep of the Corniche, on the city’s Eastern Harbour. The library is host to an exhibition on ancient Alexandria, and regularly hosts cultural and scientific events. Chatby, +20 3 483 9999, www.bibalex.org
Suitcase Fillers
Attareen district
Virtually nothing remains of the thriving community of skilled craftsmen who flocked here from all over the Mediterranean from the mid-19th century onwards, but antique hunters should nevertheless explore the streets of this district. This is where many relics of the ancien régime ended up, usually en route to Europe, the States and the Gulf, although some time and patience is needed and you shouldn’t expect bargains.
Don’t Miss This
Bibliotheca Lectures
Lectures at Alexandria’s famous library include “Gold and Silver in Ancient Egypt” on 3 December, “Coptic Heritage” on 4 December, “Shakespeare” on 22 December, “Principles and Values in Ancient Egyptian Society” on 24 December and “Astronomy in Ancient Egypt” on New Year’s Eve. www.bibalex.org
Naguib Mahfouz Festival
Bibliotheca Alexandrina celebrates the work of the great Egyptian writer and 1988 Nobel Prize for Literature winner, Naguib Mahfouz, who died in 2006. Three film adaptations of his novels are being screened on 11-15 December – Palace Walk, Palace of Desire and Sugar Street. www.bibalex.org
Shaabiyah
Don’t be put off by the theme-park appearance (the building is designed to look like an old Saudi house); this is the place to come for quality Lebanese and Saudi eats. 404 Olaya Main Road, +966 1 465 8581
Spazio 77 Knock-out high-altitude dining at 77 floors up. World-class French and Italian cuisine (plus a sushi bar) competes with the vertiginous views for diners’ attention. Kingdom Centre, King Fahad Highway, Olaya, +966 1 211 1888
Suitcase Fillers
Batha District
Discover a hive of sub-continent traders offering an array of cheap clothes and electronics. Riyadh is one of the cheapest places in the world to find computer and electronic equipment – try the “computer souk” off Olaya Street.
1886 Restaurant
Unusually for this city, smart dress is required, but 1886 – housed in a classic old Luxor institution – really delivers on the fine European delicacies. Old Winter Palace Hotel, Corniche El-Nil, East Bank, +20 95 238 0422
Oasis Café This atmospheric eatery brims with colonial elegance, which is reason enough to savour a frothy cappuccino at least. Sharia Dr Labib Habashi, East Bank, +20 95 336 7121
At Your Leisure
Hot-air Ballooning
The best way to beat the crowds among the tombs and temples of Luxor’s West Bank is to travel by air. The view over the monuments and mountains is breathtaking. Arrange your trip through your hotel or any of Luxor’s travel agents.
Blue Fig
A stunning meeting place for Amman’s beautiful people, with a hip ambience, great music and some really tasty food. Prince Hashem Street, Abdoun, +962 6 592 8800
E.V.O.O.
Despite its dreadful name (it stands for “extra virgin olive oil”), E.V.O.O. has no problem filling tables thanks to its authentic Italian cuisine. After starting with bread and the eponymous oil, do things the Italian way and eat a four-course meal. The steaks are particularly impressive. Sheraton Amman Al-Nabil Hotel & Towers, 5th Circle, +962 6 593 4111
Suitcase Fillers
Al-Aydi
Al-Aydi is king of Amman’s craft centres, with a huge variety of pieces, from mother-of-pearl to hand-blown glassware, carved olive wood, beautiful, embroidered dresses, jewellery and carpets. 2nd Circle, + 962 6 464 4555
Hamleys The first Middle Eastern branch of London’s most famous toy store opened earlier this year on Amman’s Mecca Street. You’ll be hard pushed to find a better selection of toys and games anywhere else in the region. Mecca Street, +962 6 551 5020
At Your Leisure
Jebal Al-Weibdeh
On Jebal Al-Weibdeh’s hilly streets, you’ll find cutting-edge galleries – Makan, Dar Al-Anda and Darat Al-Funun – as well as the National Gallery of Fine Arts.
Madaba
Half an hour from Amman, Madaba is renowned for its Byzantine mosaics, several of which can be found in St George’s Church. The mosaic maps from the 6th century are an absolute must-see.
Don’t Miss This
Amman Comedy Festival
This four-day festival, on 2-5 December, features Ahmed Ahmed, Russell Peters, Maz Jobrani and Dean Obeidallah. www.ammancity.gov.jo
On Deck
Sharm’s most romantic spot, On Deck is an open-air dining platform above the waters of Naama Bay. The views are spectacular, while the highlight from the menu is the seafood. Dishes range from simple grilled snapper to the classic 70s surf ‘n’ turf extravaganza of fillet steak and lobster. Iberotel Lido, Naama Bay, +20 69 360 2603
Sinai Star
Away from the glitzy glamour of Naama Bay, Sinai Star is a Sharm institution in the Old Market part of town. For more than a decade, it has based its trade on no-nonsense seafood platters served up quickly and efficiently in a convivial warehouse setting. There’s no menu so don’t be afraid to ask what’s on offer. Apart from the platters, there are soups, whole fish and shellfish. Old Market, +20 69 366 0323
The clichés are true – this glorious Turkish city is an intoxicating blend of East and West
Local Knowledge
Deniz TezucanPR Executive
For the past 15 years I’ve spent New Year’s Eve with my family at a wonderful restaurant called Beyti (+90 212 663 2990). The Florya restaurant is very famous – it’s been visited by the likes of Richard Nixon and Jimmy Carter. Visitors should book the acceptance hall – it’s the best saloon.
Top Tables
Kafe Ara
Named after photographer Ara Guler, “the Eye of Istanbul”, who has offices nearby and can often be seen drinking tea at a corner table, this café is a favourite among the classy crowd that constitutes Istanbul’s thriving creative class. The food is a healthy mix of western European and Turkish, and is complemented by a lively atmosphere.Don’t miss the Sunday brunch, a lavishly updated version of the classic Turkish breakfast. 8A Tosbaga Sokak, off Yenicarsi Caddesi, Galatasaray, +90 212 245 4105
Leyla Leyla’s diminutive façade facing Tunel Square opens into a warm, lofty room that is usually filled with the smell of fresh coffee or spicy Turkish breakfast meats. Famous for its wide selection of coffees and its laid-back atmosphere, Leyla is perfect for settling into a book or watching the crowds on Istiklal Caddesi, Istanbul’s central boulevard. 4 Tunel Square, Beyoglu, +90 212 245 4028
New Opening
Park Hyatt Istanbul Macka Palas
There’s no shortage of luxury hotels in Istanbul, but the new Park Hyatt, slated to open at the end of December, seems likely to have the edge over the competition. The Nisantasi hotel is housed in an art deco building and boasts Armani and Gucci boutiques as well as Prime, a new seafood and steak restaurant. + 90 212 368 1234; www.istanbul.park.hyatt.com
Don’t Miss This
Galatasaray vs Basiktas
Galatasaray go into this derby in good spirits following their victory over Greek champions Olympiakos. Australian striker Harry Kewell, who scored the only goal in the Champions League match, is in fine form, but the Black Eagles of Basiktas have started the season well – expect a fiery atmosphere.
Hakyo Cepkin
A Turkish alternative rock star of Armenian origin, Cepkin brings his edgy music to the Ooze Venue on 12 December. www.biletix.com
IsimSehir
The new exhibition features paintings and short videos by 18 Turkish artists. The theme uniting the works is the relationship between individuals and the city. At Bulent Ecevit Cultural Centre in Kartal until 15 December, and at the Atakent Cultural Centre from 28 December.
Salvador Dali Exhibition Until 19 January, the Sakip Sabanci Museum is hosting a major Dali exhibition, with 270 works by the Spanish surrealist on display.
The Wedding Present
This gig at Babylon on 22 December introduces a seminal UK band to a Turkish audience. The Leeds band only reformed in 2005 after a long hiatus and are playing Turkey for the first time.
Jazeera Airways’ charming home country offers world-class food, shopping and hotels
Local Knowledge
Amira Behbehani Artist
New Year’s Eve in Kuwait is all about spending time with friends and family. There aren’t any fireworks displays or large public celebrations; instead people who choose to celebrate enjoy the opportunity to spend time at home with their family and look forward to the year ahead.
Top Tables
Awtar Libnan
Yet another fine Lebanese restaurant in Kuwait, Awtar Libnan has everything going for it. Big, cosy outdoor sofas? Check. Beautifully presented and tasty mezze dishes? Of course. Great value and friendly service? Certainly. A convenient location by the entrance to Marina Mall? Naturally. We recommend the smooth, creamy moutabel, the fiery muhammara and the succulent mixed grill. Marina Mall, Salmiya, +965 224 4815
Burger Boutique This Kuwaiti-owned restaurant does so much more than merely deliver knock-out burgers and fries. It transports you to a world far away from the boring shopping mall on the other side of its doors. It’s a Batcave of playful kookiness, where the low lighting, innovative menu design and funky furniture makes it look more like a trendy nightlife venue than a restaurant. The burgers are top-notch (try the rib-eye version), although the home-cut fries are sadly nothing special. The cash-rich can try the super-tender wagyu burger, while the indecisive can order a varied selection of mini-burgers. Arraya Centre, next to the Marriott Courtyard Hotel, +965 299 7775
Café Blanc
A slice of cucumber here, a pomegranate seed there; the difference is in the detail at Café Blanc. As befits a restaurant with a French name, the presentation here is almost beautiful enough to elevate Lebanese food to fine dining. These arty flourishes, along with gorgeous crockery and tableware, good service, reasonable prices, and a prime view of the marina, set Café Blanc apart from the competition.
From the velvety houmous to a perky tabbouleh and a range of succulent kebabs, this restaurant gets just about everything right. We can’t recommend this particular address highly enough. Marina Mall, Salmiya, Crescent Side, +965 224 4644
Shatea Al-Watyla Indigenous cuisine can be hard to find in Gulf countries. This isn’t because nobody eats the food anymore; on the contrary, people eat their own cuisine at home and want something different when going to a restaurant. Shatea AlWatyla is Kuwait’s only restaurant serving the national cuisine, but despite the lack of competition it’s a fine place for lunch or dinner. The Behbehani house it inhabits is over half a century old and is an atmospheric backdrop to a meal of marquoq (dough balls with meat in a tomato sauce), murabyan (a shrimp curry) and makbous (chicken or lamb with rice). Behbehani Complex, +965 242 2077
Sarai The cooking at Sarai is influenced by Armenian, Turkish and Syrian culinary traditions. And it’s quite brilliant. Meals start with crispy breadsticks, olives and dips of labneh and zaatar. The houmous muhammara is wonderful, with the hot pepper and walnut blend spicily swirled into the chickpea dip. Even better is the kebbeh assourat. The raw minced lamb should be wrapped up in soft, puffy flatbread with onion, fresh mint and garlic cream – a wonderful combination. The two-storey restaurant is atmospheric and service is polite and attentive. Highly recommended. Next to Movenpick Hotel, Safat, +965 224 2424
Suitcase Fillers
Mubarikiya
Kuwait’s Old Souq has recently been polished up and modernised, all of this achieved without sacrificing any of its traditional flavour. Shop here for herbs and spices, gold jewellery and traditional attire. Old Souq, Downtown
Sultan Centre Running out of time, but have loads of shopping left to do? Make your way to the Sultan Centre: whatever it is you are looking for – clothing, cosmetics, electronics… pretty much anything – chances are you will find it here. Inside Souq Sharq, Gulf Road, +965 240 8772
At Your Leisure
Tareq Rajab Museum
Named after the first Kuwaiti to study art and architecture overseas, the Tareq Rajab Museum is the nation’s foremost privately owned collection of art, calligraphy, textiles, jewellery and musical instruments. Tareq Rajab incorporates a museum of Islamic calligraphy, while Dar El-Cid, an art gallery and exhibition hall, is located just around the corner. (For an interview with Tareq Rajab, see page 52.) Jabriya, +965 531 7358
Palm Grove Restaurant
Providing a bit of glamour, this chic beachside restaurant at the Hilton Hotel has a fine reputation for quality dining. Try the lobster – locally caught, which will bring the taste of the sea to your plate. Hilton Salalah Resort, +968 2321 1234
Suitcase Fillers
Al-Husn Souq
The souq may occupy relatively new premises, but the spirit of trading on this spot goes back centuries. Must-haves include frankincense and incense burners.
At Your Leisure
The Tomb of Job
Ascend the Ittin Road and sit by Job in the prophet’s last resting place. You’ll see weaver birds, frankincense trees and stunning views of the Salalah plain.
Beaches, great food, nature and culture – the perfect family holiday destination
Sunshine, culture and ancient history in Egypt’s Mediterranean pearl