Sunshine, culture and ancient history in Egypt’s Mediterranean pearl

Local Knowledge

Emad Defrawy General Manager, Hilton
People in Alexandria don’t celebrate New Year as much as they do in Cairo, but the cafés in the malls and the famous restaurants will be packed. Most years the Alexandria Opera House arranges a concert for New Year’s Eve. It’s always a wonderful start to the New Year. www.alexandriagreenplaza.hilton.com

Top Tables

Byblos
The super-luxurious Four Seasons Alexandria opened in the summer of 2007 and its flagship restaurant, Byblos, offers contemporary Lebanese-French cooking and a wonderful view of the Mediterranean. Expect the usual Four Seasons opulence combined with the finest ingredients. Remember to remove your sandals – the dress code is strictly smart. The Four Seasons Alexandria at San Stefano, +20 3 469 0141

Cap D’Or
Cap D’Or is one of the few survivors of Alexandria’s Silver Age, when Egypt’s Mediterranean port was a thriving cosmopolitan centre of world trade and intrigue. Every inch of wall-space is covered with old photos, pictures and posters of places and products long since vanished. The serving counter is 100% zinc and the small seating area tightly packed. There’s an emphasis on simple mezze and local seafood – try the garlicky prawns in batter. 4 Adib St, +20 3 483 5177

At Your Leisure

Bibliotecha Alexandrina
The Bibliotecha is a must-see. Though less than a decade old, this spectacular building has done more to put Alexandria back on the map than any other initiative. The giant, discus-like structure, tilted and partly below street level, stands magnificently down the great sweep of the Corniche, on the city’s Eastern Harbour. The library is host to an exhibition on ancient Alexandria, and regularly hosts cultural and scientific events. Chatby, +20 3 483 9999, www.bibalex.org

Suitcase Fillers

Attareen district
Virtually nothing remains of the thriving community of skilled craftsmen who flocked here from all over the Mediterranean from the mid-19th century onwards, but antique hunters should nevertheless explore the streets of this district. This is where many relics of the ancien régime ended up, usually en route to Europe, the States and the Gulf, although some time and patience is needed and you shouldn’t expect bargains.

Don’t Miss This

Bibliotheca Lectures
Lectures at Alexandria’s famous library include “Gold and Silver in Ancient Egypt” on 3 December, “Coptic Heritage” on 4 December, “Shakespeare” on 22 December, “Principles and Values in Ancient Egyptian Society” on 24 December and “Astronomy in Ancient Egypt” on New Year’s Eve. www.bibalex.org

Naguib Mahfouz Festival
Bibliotheca Alexandrina celebrates the work of the great Egyptian writer and 1988 Nobel Prize for Literature winner, Naguib Mahfouz, who died in 2006. Three film adaptations of his novels are being screened on 11-15 December – Palace Walk, Palace of Desire and Sugar Street. www.bibalex.org