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 The clichés are true – this glorious Turkish city is an intoxicating blend of East and West
Local Knowledge
Emre Senol Hotel Sales Agent
My favourite building is Galata Tower, an Istanbul landmark since its construction in 1348. It was once the city’s tallest structure and still commands incredible views over the city and the Bosphorus. An indelible part of the city’s architectural heritage, it remains a focal point for tourists and locals alike.
Top Tables
Kafe Ara
Named after photographer Ara Guler, ‘the Eye of Istanbul’, who has offices nearby and can often be seen drinking tea at a corner table, this café is a favourite among the classy crowd that constitutes Istanbul’s thriving creative class. The food is a healthy mix of western European and Turkish, and is complemented by a lively atmosphere.Don’t miss the Sunday brunch, a lavishly updated version of the classic Turkish breakfast. Tosbaga Sokak 8/A, off Yenicarsi Caddesi, Galatasaray, +90 212 245 4105
Leyla
Leyla’s diminutive façade facing Tunel Square opens into a warm, lofty room that is usually filled with the smell of fresh coffee or spicy Turkish breakfast meats. Famous for its wide selection of coffees and its laid-back atmosphere, Leyla is perfect for settling into a book or watching the crowds on Istiklal Caddesi, Istanbul’s central boulevard. Tunel Square 4, Beyoglu, +90 212 245 4028
Don’t Miss This
Chuck Berry
John Lennon once said: “If you tried to give rock and roll another name, you might call it ‘Chuck Berry’”. At 81 years old, the inventor of rock and roll is still going strong. The man who sang No Particular Place To Go, Maybellene and Johnny B Goode plays at Parkorman on 9 November.
Fenerbahce v Galatasaray
Warning: this Istanbul derby is not for the faint-hearted. There’s no love lost between fans of Fenerbahce and Galatasaray and such an explosive rivalry always leads to fireworks both on and off the pitch. With ex-Liverpool striker Harry Kewell in fine form, Galatasaray will be slight favourites, but the home side will be fired up to defeat their rivals.
Filmekimi
Istanbul’s annual film week showcases the best of Turkish and international cinema. This year’s schedule has yet to be announced, but last year saw Control, The Diving Bell and the Butterfly and Persepolis on the stellar line-up. www.iksv.org
Phonem
This long-running alternative music festival has attracted the likes of Devendra Banhart, Mogwai and The Notwist in recent years. www.iksv.org
REM
On 4 October, Michael Stipe, Peter Buck and Mike Mills take their exciting live show to Turkey for the first time. Fourteen albums into their career, REM are struggling to reproduce the form of their late-80s/early 90s heyday, but on stage they’re as good as ever. At the Turkcell Kurucesme Arena.
Salvador Dali Exhibition
Until 19 January, the Sakip Sabanci Museum is hosting a major Dali exhibition, with 270 works by the Spanish surrealist on display.
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