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 Discover the myriad delights of one of the oldest cities in the world
Top Tables
Abou Kamal
Ask any well-heeled Syrian where they would take their partner for a night of classy, traditional food, and it’s likely they’ll rave about Abou Kamal. Overlooking the cobbled Youssef Al-Azmeh Square, it’s a place where you can grab a window seat and watch Damascus bustle by while sampling their specialities; lightly seared lamb’s brain and grilled pigeon. Youssef Al-Azmeh Square, +963 11 221 1159
Arabi Restaurant
Just off Almarjeah Square you’ll find a cluster of excellent Syrian eateries, the best of which is arguably Arabi Restaurant. Unobtrusive staff deliver plates of flawless mezze – the kibbeh is particularly delicious – before serving up the chef’s favourite: chicken served on a mound of freekeh (yet-to-ripen durum wheat) and roasted with almonds. Almarjeah Square, Old City, +963 11 221 2193
Beit Jabri
The Jabris were the first Damascene family to realise the potential of turning a beautiful Old City home into a restaurant. None of their many competitors conjure up the same unhurried air. 14 Sharia Sawwaf, Old City, +963 11 544 3200
At Your Leisure
Hammam Al-Malek Al-Zaher
The Syrians were perfecting male grooming long before the West had even discovered the razor. These majestic baths, next to the Umayyad mosque, have remained unchanged for centuries. As have the techniques. Walk through the heavy wooden door and you’re transported into a different epoch: a time when the wealthy could luxuriate all day under Al-Zaher’s ornate domed steam room. After a vigorous rubdown, you’ll be crunched by a male masseur to give you the hardest – but most rewarding – massage of your life. Come to terms with your new spine by lazing in Al-Zaher’s mosaic-laid, cushion-covered courtyard as you’re brought cups of sugary tea. Next to Al-Zaheriya Library, Old City, +963 11 222 5330 – women only on Monday
Don’t Miss This
World Ceramics: Masterpieces from the V&A
The grand finale to the events and celebrations that have marked Damascus’ year as the Arab Capital of Culture is a must-see. From 24 November, the historical Khan As’ad Basha building will host 116 treasures on loan from London’s Victoria and Albert Museum. The exhibition explores the history of international ceramics from 3000BC to the present day. Exhibits on display include a vase by Pablo Picasso, extremely rare Medici porcelain, wares from Song and Ming Dynasty China, and Syrian ceramics from the National Museum of Damascus. The exhibition ends on 8 January.
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