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 The clichés are true – this glorious Turkish city is an intoxicating blend of East and West
Local Knowledge
Barbara J Isenberg Writer, Turkish Muse
Ramadan in Istanbul is nothing short of spectacular, especially if you have the chance to attend the nightly carnival in the Hippodrome in Sultanahmet. It’s great at weekends after dark when thousands of families descend upon the park to gorge sugary sweets, ice cream and fruit. www.turkishmuse.com
Top Tables
Kafe Ara
Named after photographer Ara Guler, “the Eye of Istanbul”, who has offices nearby and can often be seen drinking tea at a corner table, this café is a favourite among the classy crowd that constitutes Istanbul’s thriving creative class. The food is a healthy mix of western European and Turkish, and is complemented by a lively, energetic atmosphere. Don’t miss the Sunday brunch, a lavishly updated version of the classic Turkish breakfast. Tosbaga Sokak 8/A, off Yenicarsi Caddesi, Galatasaray, +90 212 245 4105
Leyla
Leyla’s diminutive façade facing Tunel Square opens into a warm, lofty room that is usually filled with the smell of fresh coffee or spicy Turkish breakfast meats. Famous for its wide selection of coffees and its laid-back atmosphere, Leyla is perfect for settling into a book or watching the crowds mingle on Istiklal Caddesi, Istanbul’s central boulevard.Tunel Square 4, Beyoglu, +90 212 245 4028
New Opening
Four Seasons Istanbul at Bosphorus
The second Four Seasons hotel in the Turkish city is located in the Besiktas part of town, right on the banks of the Bosphorus. Occupying a 19th-century palace, the hotel offers 141 guest rooms, a quarter of which boast fantastic views of the Asian side of the city. Ciragan Cad 28, Besiktas, +90 212 381 4000
Talking Point
Heroes’ Welcome
After a brilliant performance in Euro 2008, the Turkish national team were greeted by huge crowds of cheering supporters upon their arrival home. The Turks kept defying the odds, coming back from two goals down to defeat the Czech Republic and scoring with the last kick of the game to draw level with Croatia. Fans packed cafés for the semi-final against Germany, but the team ran out of luck, conceding a last-minute goal in a game they deserved to win.
Don’t Miss This
Björk
The eccentric Icelander showcases her most recent album, Volta, at the Turkcell Kurucesme Arena on 3 August. Expect jaw-dropping costume changes and a vocal range that never fails to impress.
Duman
One of Turkey’s biggest rock bands, known for combining traditional folk with grunge, play Cemil Topuzlu Acikhava Sahnesi on 15 August. Leather jackets and dreadlocks optional…
Global Gathering
The world’s best-known dance music festival will be held at Seanergy Beach on August 8-9. Acts on the bill include Sasha, Eric Prydz, Calvin Harris and DeepDish.
The Scorpions
German rockers The Scorpions, of Wind Of Change fame, play at Parkorman on 22 August.
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