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Text_James Brennan Photography_Mario K
At Al-Qasr, kibbeh nayeh is served in swirled teardrops slathered in extra virgin olive oil, neatly arranged around the plate with sprigs of fresh mint, pine nuts, red onion and soft, warm flatbreads. Every single mouthful resonates with flavour and freshness. And as the belly dancer whirls among the tables, you appreciate what people mean when they talk about Lebanese hospitality. |
It begins with the leanest and freshest meat available, involves a strenuous session of grinding and pounding, leads to an intensely sensual experience and ends with a breathless exotic dance. Eating kibbeh nayeh at AlQasr is never dull. The choice delicacy of raw ground lamb is available at many of Dubai’s Lebanese eateries, but never with such panache, drama and excitement as at this Dubai Marine Beach Resort (+ 971 4 346 1111) restaurant.
I was introduced to the dish by a friend shortly after I arrived in Dubai. I recall his enjoyment watching this wet-behind-the-ears Englishman squirm at the prospect of eating raw meat. As a fog of shisha smoke enveloped me, and the stirring Arabic music did its utmost to rearrange my senses, I took my first tentative mouthful. But I found the Middle Eastern version of steak tartare to be a revelation and I’ve been hooked ever since.
The traditional Lebanese recipe differs from kitchen to kitchen, but the method used is usually the same. The lamb must be from a trusted butcher to guarantee its quality and freshness, and it must be minced and pounded with a jurn and madaqqa (stone mortar and pestle). Fresh herbs such as mint, basil and parsley can be added, along with diced onions, black pepper, cinnamon and cumin. Then ground bulgur wheat is thrown in to give it its distinctive gritty texture, which offsets the velvety creaminess of the meat.