The clichés are true – this glorious Turkish city is an intoxicating blend of East and West

Top Tables

Kafe Ara
Named after photographer Ara Guler, ‘the Eye of Istanbul’, who has offices nearby and can often be seen drinking tea at a corner table, this café is a favourite among the classy crowd that constitutes Istanbul’s thriving creative class. The food is a healthy mix of western European and Turkish, and is complemented by a lively, energetic atmosphere. Don’t miss the Sunday brunch, a lavishly updated version of the classic Turkish breakfast. Tosbaga Sokak 8/A, off Yenicarsi Caddesi, Galatasaray +90 212 245 4105

Leyla
Leyla’s diminutive façade facing Tunel Square opens into a warm, lofty room that is usually filled with the smell of fresh coffee or spicy Turkish breakfast meats. Famous for its wide selection of coffees and its laid-back atmosphere, Leyla is perfect for settling into a favourite book or just watching the crowds mingle on Istiklal Caddesi, Istanbul’s central boulevard.Tunel Square 4, Beyoglu, +90 212 245 4028

Don’t Miss This

Judas Priest
The veteran metal band will rock the Turkcell Kurucesme Arena on 13 July. These guys are infamously loud, so don’t forget to carry a pair of earplugs.

Lenny Kravitz
Love him or hate him, you’ve probably had a Lenny Kravitz song stuck in your head at some point in the last two decades. He’s at the Turkcell Kurucesme Arena on 30 July to promote his latest record, It Is Time For A Love Revolution.

Mark Knopfler
Prepare for 80s pop-rock classics Sultans of Swing and Money For Nothing as the former Dire Straits frontman rolls out the hits, as well as some lesser-known tracks from his solo career. At the Turkcell Kurucesme Arena on 13 June.

Massive Attack
Hailing from Bristol, England, Massive Attack were among the early pioneers of trip-hop music. On 13 July, they bring their distinctive sound to Istanbul’s Parkorman. Expect them to preview tracks from their soon-to-arrive fifth album.

Talking Point

Euro 08
Turkish eyes will be on Switzerland and Austria this June as the national football team aim for glory in the European championships. Turkey’s campaign kicks off on the opening day of the tournament (7 June) with a game against much-fancied Portugal in Geneva. Four days later they take on their Swiss hosts in Basel, and the Czech Republic are the opponents in Geneva on Sunday 15 June. Whatever happens, the venues around Taksim Square are sure to be packed to the rafters.

Local Knowledge

Esen Boyacigiller Editor, Time Out Istanbul
Alacati Beach in Cesme is never too hot in summer because of the cooling wind. It’s popular with both windsurfers and their spectators. Try a mastic-flavoured ice cream while taking it easy in a hammock under the palm trees. When things cool down at night, musicians play right by the water. www.timeout.com.tr

TONY FRENCH