An intoxicating blend of the old and the new

Top Tables

Blue Fig
An architecturally stunning meeting point for Amman’s beautiful people, with a hip, laidback ambience, great music and tasty food. Prince Hashem Street, Abdoun, +962 6 592 8800,

E.V.O.O.
Despite its dreadful name (it stands for ‘extra virgin olive oil’ apparently), E.V.O.O. has no problem filling tables thanks to its authentic Italian cuisine. After starting with bread and the eponymous oil, do things the Italian way and eat a four-course meal. The steaks are particularly impressive. Sheraton Amman AlNabil Hotel & Towers, 5th Circle, +962 6 593 4111

Indu
Authentic Indian cuisine in a sophisticated, modern setting that oozes style. Take your pick from tandoori meat dishes to outstanding Keralan vegetarian specialities. InterContinental Hotel, 3rd Circle, +962 6 464 1361, www.interconti.com

Tannoureen
A classy spot for formal power-dining in the heart of west Amman, with a huge choice of Lebanese mezze and grills served impeccably amid an elegant, tasteful atmosphere. Shatt Al-Arab Street, Umm Uthaina, +962 6 551 5987

Suitcase Fillers

Al-Aydi
Al-Aydi is king of Amman’s craft centres, with a huge variety of pieces, from mother-of-pearl to hand-blown glassware, carved olive wood, beautiful embroidered dresses, jackets, jewellery and carpets. 2nd Circle, +962 6 464 4555

At Your Leisure

Jebal Al-Weibdeh
On Jebal Al-Weibdeh’s hilly streets, you’ll find cutting-edge galleries – Makan, Dar Al-Anda and Darat Al-Funun – as well as the National Gallery of Fine Arts.

Madaba
Half an hour from Amman, Madaba is renowned for its Byzantine mosaics, several of which can be found in St. George’s Church. The mosaic maps from the 6th century are a must-see.