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Sunshine, culture and ancient history in Egypt’s Mediterranean pearl
Top Tables
Abu Ashraf
At this formidable fish restaurant, make your selection from the day’s catch, then take a seat under the green awning and watch it being cooked. Meals come with mezze and salads. 28 Sharia Safar Pasha, Anfushi, +20 3 481 6597
Byblos
The super-luxurious Four Seasons Alexandria opened in the summer of 2007 and its flagship restaurant, Byblos, offers contemporary Lebanese-French cooking and a wonderful view of the Mediterranean. Expect the usual Four Seasons opulence combined with the finest ingredients. Remember to remove your sandals – the dress code is strictly smart. The Four Seasons Alexandria at San Stefano, +20 3 469 0141
Cap d’Or
Cap d’Or is one of the few survivors of Alexandria’s Silver Age, when Egypt’s Mediterranean port was a thriving cosmopolitan centre of world trade and international intrigue. Every inch of wall-space is covered with old photos, pictures and posters of places and products long since vanished. The serving counter is 100% zinc and the small seating area tightly packed. There’s an emphasis on simple mezze and local seafood – try the garlicky prawns in batter. 4 Adib St, +20 3 483 5177
Santa Lucia
Recently renovated, this restaurant dates back to the 1940s. Visit for classic interiors, excellent seafood, French and Greek cuisine, and spot-on service. 40 Safiyya Zaghloul St, Downtown, +20 3 486 0332
Suitcase Fillers
Attareen district
Virtually nothing remains of the thriving community of skilled craftsmen who flocked here from all over the Mediterranean from the mid-19th century onwards, but antique hunters should nevertheless explore the labyrinthine streets of the Attareen (Perfume Sellers) district. This is where many relics of the ancien régime ended up, usually en route to Europe, the States and the Gulf, although time and patience is needed and you shouldn’t expect bargains.
At Your Leisure
Biblioteca Alexandria
If you’ve only time to see one building in Alexandria, make it the Biblioteca Alexandria. Though less than a decade old, this spectacular building has done more to put Alexandria back on the map than any other initiative. The giant discus-like structure, tilted and partly below street level, stands magnificently down the great sweep of the Corniche, on the city’s Eastern Harbour. The library is host to an exhibition on ancient Alexandria, and regularly hosts cultural and scientific events. Chatby, +20 3 483 9999, www.bibalex.org
Montazah
To escape the tiring hustle of downtown Alexandria, take a day trip to the beautiful gardens and alluring beach of Montazah. It’s all overlooked by an Italianate former royal palace. Simply gorgeous.
Local Knowledge
 Zahraa Adel Awad Tour Guide
During summer, Alexandrians escape the city and head for the beaches of the north coast. Porto Marina Resort is about an hour away from Alexandria, but is definitely worth the trip. You can play a round of golf before relaxing in the restaurants overlooking the yacht marina. tourguide_egypt@yahoo.com
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