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Damascus

Bon Appetit

Beit Jabri The Jabris were the first Damascene family to realise the potential of turning a beautiful Old City home into a restaurant. None of their many competitors conjure up the same unhurried air. 14 Sharia Sawwaf, Old City, +963 11 544 3200, www.jabrihouse.com Elissar Fine mezze and superb grilled meat at this Old City favourite. Sharia Dawamneh, Bab Touma, Old City, +963 11 542 4300 Omayad Hotel The top-floor restaurant serves decent Syrian food, but the real knock-out is the view of Mount Kassioun and the city’s minarets. 1 Sharia Brazil, New City, +963 11 221 7700

Up in Arms

Residents and conservationists are appalled that Damascus authorities plan to demolish part of the Old City to make room for a new express road.

Suitcase Fillers

Ghraoui One of the world’s best chocolatiers has old wooden fittings and bags of charm. Muhafaza Building, Sharia Bur Said, New City, +963 11 231 323

At Your Leisure

Sharia Abu Romaneh Designed by the French during their post-WWI occupation, Abu Romaneh is a pleasant enclave of the New City. Text_Oliver August